The square and canals of Venice are famously packed with shorts-and-sneaker-sporting tourists in late summer and even historic homes on small cobblestone streets have been converted to Airbnbs. But across the water, on the barrier island of Lido, Laura Dern is chic in pale rose Prada, Rebecca Donaldson is turning heads in shimmering champagne and silver sequins, Claire Foy has chosen long scarlet opera gloves to match her ruched red gown and John Malkovich is sporting an Elizabethan ruffled collar with his Dior suit.
The Venice Film Festival is in full swing, and in addition to viewing Danny Boyle’s Murdoch saga Ink, there’s a lot to enjoy in the area — whether during the festival (assuming you’ve made arrangements far in advance) or on your next visit.
Rather than shuttling back and forth to Venice proper, you can stay right in Lido at The Excelsior, which was the scene of the first International Film Festival in 1932, and now hosts the opening ceremony on its beach as well as the opening and closing galas. It’s also less than a five-minute stroll from Sala Grande, where the screening of Lance Oppenheim’s Primetime was held.
The hotel’s entrance is lined with blown-up photos of legendary figures, from Greta Garbo to Federico Fellini. Water taxis that cross the Venetian Lagoon en route to the festival stop at the hotel’s dock, so even relaxing in the lobby puts you in the middle of some spectacular arrivals, and you can’t underestimate the convenience of having a room there in which to shower, change and nap.
The Excelsior just reopened this past May after a major renovation, including a redesign of its nearly 200 rooms and suites and a new terrace restaurant called Amù Venice. The Iconic Hotels & Resorts property also has a spiffed-up beach club with private cabanas and views of the Adriatic — a perfect addition for the only five-star resort in the area that’s on the sand. Apart from sneaking in a dip in the large heated pool, guests can participate in stand-up paddle boarding, water skiing, boating and tennis. Massages can be arranged in-room with the sea as a backdrop, and if you want to hop over to Harry’s Bar, the hotel has complimentary water taxis.
Near Lido is another island in the Venetian Lagoon, the 15-acre San Clemente, that is entirely occupied by a hotel, the Kempinski San Clemente Palace. It was built in a restored 12th century monastery that still houses a Medieval church. Each year people seeking a little privacy choose this spot, which has played host to Johnny Depp and Jennifer Lopez, as well as events for Armani and AmfAR.
The elegant, expansive rooms are palatial, with soaring ceilings, huge windows overlooking Mediterranean gardens or the canal, gilded mirrors and terrazzo floors. There is a large, tranquil heated pool surrounded by lush grounds, along with tennis and volleyball courts, a spa, and a waterside golf training area. The hotel has regular art and sculpture exhibitions, as well as outdoor screenings. There is a complimentary shuttle boat to Venice that runs all day, but if you want to remain on San Clemente, the main restaurant, Acquerello, sits on the lagoon and serves modern Venetian cuisine, with such dishes as scallops with sunchoke cream and tapioca chips, and lagoon spider crab with artichokes and lime bisque. For a more casual meal, diners can head poolside to La Specialità, which makes a variety of thin-crust pizza as well as salads, pastas and fish.
Wherever you stay, it’s well worth booking excursions with SeeItaly, which can upgrade your trip with a 60-meter wooden sailing yacht that was a favorite of Maria Callas. There is no noise of a motor and a Michelin starred chef whips up dishes while you cruise the canals. The company can also curate other experiences including tours of local palazzos, intimate rooftop dinners overlooking the Grand Canal and appointments with local artisans, where visitors can have jewelry, scarves and shoes made. Fans of Eyes Wide Shut can even design their own Venetian masks.
